The History and Tragedy of Verdun
I should warn you - the story about Verdun doesn't have a happy ending.
In fact, there are so few parts of the Verdun story that are uplifting or endearing, yet it's story that must be told.
Not only that, it's a place that must be seen.
You see, Verdun is a city located in northeastern France in the department of Lorraine, and has had the privilege of being front and center for many of Europe's worst wars. While there are hills that surround the town, this area of France lacks towering mountains, large bodies of water, or other geological features that make invading armies think twice before, well, invading. And while Verdun suffered great casualties during earlier centuries, the town's worst fate was slated for the year 1916.
1916 - two years deep into the "Great War," the war that was supposed to be quick and relatively painless. The war that sent so many eager soldiers on all sides into battle at the whims of their leaders for purposes that hardly made sense to anyone. The war that would cause an entire generation to be "lost," and would introduce the world to new and terrifying technology, such as tanks, poisonous gas, flame throwers and air attacks. The war that would be fought over small stretches of land, deep in trenches, with modest gains for the victors.
In a war known for such terror, Verdun is one of the worst of the worst.
Verdun, a picturesque, modest town on the banks of the Meuse River near the border of Belgium, Luxembourg and Germany, sitting like a open target, waiting for the horror that was to come.
I will admit, I have a "thing" for World War I. I will also admit that I know it is a bit strange to have a "thing" for a war, but there is something about World War I that I find extremely compelling. Perhaps because I can relate to the "lost" generation in the sense that they were sent off on a fool's errand by older generations. My generation will be defined by the second Iraq War, certainly a fool's errand if ever there was one. While I only know one man who did not make it out of Iraq alive, that is one man too many. Stories told of life in the trenches, even by the enemy, are so moving and heartbreaking, such as All Quiet on the Western Front by Enrich Maria Ramarque. Vera Brittain's tragic and moving autobiography, Testament of Youth, details the life of a woman who lost all of the men in her life to the war, as well as her work as a nurse during the same time period.
Yes, World War I, for some reason, fascinates me like no other war does.
Therefore, a large facet of this European trip would revolve around this war to end all wars. Because we were visiting in 2014, exactly 100 years since the Austrian Archduke lost his life in Sarajevo, the assassination that caused unprecedented ripple effects, it seemed fitting to honor this lost generation with some reflection in some of this war's most notorious battlefields.
Hence, Verdun.
In a war started for pointless reasons, Verdun stands as a shining example of the folly of men. Considered one of the costliest battles of the war, or, as the "most horrific battle known to man," the German's recognized the emotional connection the French felt for this town and decided to attack the line of forts located along the hillsides just outside of town. Despite the fact that France had poured large amounts of money into the construction of strategic defensive forts around the town, German forces were easily able to gain control of them, taking control of the main prize, Fort Douaumont.
What makes the attack on Verdun even more depressing is the reason German forces selected to attack this bucolic town. Because of its location at the center of many historic battles, the French would do everything in its power to defend Verdun. Knowing this, the German's motive was simple: attacking Verdun would inflict the most casualties, as the French would throw everything it had to protect this town.
What started as a mere skirmish on February 21, 1916, soon escalated to all out war. The town of Verdun was heavily battered, and surrounding towns and villages were ultimately wiped off the map. Untold stories of horror played out in the forests that surround the town today, as soldiers on both sides of the war were greeted by the bloody schemes conjured up by men who had nothing to lose. The Battle of Verdun raged on for almost a year, ending on December 21, 1916. In the end, nothing was gained - the French were able to gain back any lost territory while the German's withdrew in defeat.
What was lost, though, is a different story. Verdun is known as one of the bloodiest battles of all time, with nearly 700,000 casualities. The German's and French lost almost equal numbers of men, nearly 150,000 each.
EACH.
What's even worse than dying is the fact that you've ultimately died for nothing.
Because war.
Because Verdun.
At least I warned you at the beginning of this post that this story didn't have a happy ending.
And yet, that's not wholly accurate either.
There is life still in Verdun. While I recently read that the historic hotel, Hostellerie du Coq Hardi, closed down, there are people, shops, beautiful buildings, quiant streets to stroll down, sights to see.
One of the most beautiful things that has come out of this tragedy is the ability of those in Verdun to put the battle in perspective. There are monuments all around the countryside, and while many of them honor the dead French, there are reminders that French parents aren't the only ones who suffered during this campaign. You will see rememberances to the enemy as well - to remind us all that war can, and ultimately should, be seen on a human scale.
No, the Battle of Verdun was not a success by any stretch of the imagination. But for those who visit and see life where none should exist, who see forgiveness and the foresightedness to attempt to understand the confusion and the madness of war, then maybe, just maybe, there's a chance that something good may one day come out of something so terrible.
Because Verdun.
Mornings on the Meuse River in Verdun
Cross over the River Meuse into downtown Verdun
Exploring the battlefields around Verdun is easy, especially with maps pointing the way.
One of the most important locations of the Battle of Verdun, guests can tour the insides of the fort, seeing how both the French and Germans lived and fought during WWI.
The Facts
The town of Verdun is about a two and a half hour drive away from Paris. We arrived via Reims from the A4, then D163, which featured some of the most memorable, French countryside vistas of the entire trip. (See previous post about Champagne for images and more commentary about the route).
Verdun does not have a large selection of hotels, and visitors should expect to stay in budget friendly accommodations. For those travelers more accustomed to fancier accommodations, best to look elsewhere.
Hotel: Ibis Budget Hotel Verdun
Location: Rue Jean Norton-CruZAC Sud Actipôle 55100 VERDUN FRANCE
Website: Click here
Rate: $50 a night
The scoop: The Ibis Budget Hotel is exactly what the name suggests - a budget hotel. For $50 a night, it is hard to complain, and honestly, there is very little I would complain about.
That being said, here are some tips to better prepare you for a night at the Ibis Budget Hotel Verdun:
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You will be sharing this hotel with high school groups and they will be in the parking lot talking at night. You should know this going in. Fortunately for us, they didn't cause us to lose any sleep, but you might get a group that does.
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The pillows on the bed are more suggestions of what a pillow could be rather than anything that will hold your neck up overnight. Having a traveling neck pillow will do the trick.
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There is no separate bathroom, though there is a semi-private toilet behind a closed door. Be sure you and your travel buddy are close because the showers are more-or-less in the middle of the room.
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This hotel is not near the downtown area - it is on the outskirts. However, there are several restaurants nearby that are decent - including a first for us - a restaurnt whose entire menu is dedicated to potatoes!
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They don't have a full time front desk staff - and if you go out thinking you can sneak back in with the passcode right before check out time, be prepared to stand at the front door wondering if you will ever see your belongings again. Someone will eventually come and let you in, but they may not be thrilled to see you. And that "Help" button on the intercom? Useless.
Overall, this hotel lived up to its modest expectations. The room was clean, the bed relatively comfortable, and it was close enough to the action. We knew what we were getting ourselves into when we booked this hotel, and therefore were not disappointed. I recommend this hotel for a night or two.
Restaurant: La Pataterie
Address: actipole de verdun sud rue Jacques Meyer - 55100 VERDUN
Price range: €8-15 per main
The scoop: It's a potato themed restaurant.
No. I am not kidding.
For real! A potato themed restaurant.
For those who like potatoes cooked in all sorts of ways, this is your place. For some reason, I must have had a stroke of stupidity and I didn't bother to order a potato but got kebabs instead. What a missed opportunity!
The service was super friendly and our waiter spoke English very well. He helped us navigate the menu and Ben even ordered a potato with sausage on it. He enjoyed it.
If you're in town and staying at the Ibis Budget Hotel, you should stop in. When will you ever have such an opportunity again?
Exactly.
Restaurant: le Coq Hardi at Hostellerie du Coq Hardi
Address: 8 Avenue de la Victoire, 55100 Verdun, France
Website: None
The scoop: It's closed. Gone. Done.
Wha?! Why?! HOW?!
This was one of our favorite meals throughout the entire trip - our lunch was fantastic, or as the French say, "fantastique." Superb. Tasty. Challenging. But overall, delicious.
We both ordered the menu du jour, which came with "le fleur de Britagne," something we both had never heard of. However, I knew with my limited French that "fleur" is "flower," so how bad could a "flower," or what I imagined must be a vegetable of some sort, be?
If only I could have seen the surprise written on our faces when it arrived. Fleur de Bretagne, friends, is an artichoke. A whole, large, glorious artichoke. The thing is - neither of us had ever dug right into an artichoke before, and truthfully, they don't lend themselves nicely to being figured out on their own. Thankfully, Ben watched an older couple behind us navigate their artichokes, and then, equipped with the right techniques, we were able to enjoy. However, we didn't realize that once you ate the leaves, you come to the best part - the heart. Thankfully, our cheerful waiter demonstrated how to access it, and we enjoyed our fleur de Bretagne even more.
My main, the "roti du cuchon en brioche," or roast pork, came with the most amazing, velvety, buttery mashed potatoes I've ever eaten. Everything we ate was divine.
And now it's gone. :(
If you want to read about how wonderful this restaurant was from someone other than me, go to this webpage.
Au revoir, le Coq Hardi. You will be missed.
Both images were borrowed from La Pataterie Restaurant's website
