Schlepping Along the Kepler Track
- Brooke
- Dec 27, 2017
- 7 min read
Updated: Oct 6, 2021
Let's keep it real - Ben and I aren't running any marathons any time soon, and we certainly aren't scaling any mountains. That doesn't mean we don't enjoy a ramble through a forest here and there, especially on our vacations. And our jaunt to Te Anau and the Fiordland area wasn't any different.
Fortunately, the world famous Kepler Track, considered one of NZ's "Great Walks," which can take up to four days to traverse the entire length, has some shorter, more accessible options for walkers of all levels. Because it also includes some high altitude areas, it has restrictions about permits, campsites, etc.. Yet, if you're like Ben and I and just want to take a few hours for a long walk, there are a few options that don't require too much advanced planning.
On the other hand, if you are like Ben and I, you really want to nail down the details before you head out. What we thought was an hour and a half round trip walk from the Kepler Track Carpark near the control gates to Brod Bay turned out to be about a 4 hour journey. One day we'll learn how to read these signs and maps more clearly. That day, sadly, still seems a long way off. If you're looking at me for details, alas, I am not your girl. You should always double check my math. :)
This photo was taken after our hike, to see where we went wrong with our understanding of the length of the trip. I'm including it here for you now, so you can better plan your outing.
View from the carpark.
The walk to Brod Bay is pretty easy - there are a few hills that go up and down, but nothing terribly serious. It's not a short ramble, though, and clocks in at around 9 miles round trip. It is a dirt path, so those who have accessibility issues may find it challenging. However, it is relatively smooth for most of the time. The trail starts off easy on a paved path over the flood gates that control the water levels of Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapōuri, all part of the Manapōuri Hydro Station.
This is where the hard work of the Manapōuri Hydro Station begins at this control gate. To learn more about the immensely impressive hydro station, as well as the effort required to build it and maintain Te Anau and Manapōuri's lake levels at reasonable heights, check out this website.
As you can tell from Ben's outfit, the day started off pretty chilly. However, once we got moving and headed into the rain forest, it became pretty warm. Be sure to wear layers, or bring shorts like I did, as you'll likely need a variety of clothing options throughout the day. And whatever you do, don't forget the bug spray.
Um, this sign was perhaps the most exciting thing I had seen the trip thus far. I hadn't expected to run into a kiwi (spoiler alert: we didn't), but after I saw this sign, I spent the next four hours scouring the hillside for a sighting. In my 3 trips to NZ, I have still never seen a real life kiwi.
Though we didn't see a kiwi, the sign warns that dogs are not allowed in this area. Alas, hiking with man's best friend must be reserved for other jaunts.
Because this walk hugs the coastline, you get lots of great water/forest views for a good portion of the walk. The water keeps the temperature mild, with some gentle breezes blowing across the glacially carved lake. The forest is full of sweet singing birds, and every little movement in the bush got me excited that it might be a kiwi. Even though we never spotted one, we did see tons of other birds, so don't be afraid to look around to find the cause of the rustling.
Ben is 6'3" in case you're wondering just how tall this tree might be.
Throughout much of the hike, we had most of the path to ourselves. We maybe saw about 5 or 6 other groups in the whole 4 hours of walking that we did, some going on to do the whole trek, and some day trippers like Ben and I. If you're looking for some quiet, meditative, relaxing rambling, this is a really great option.
Dock Bay is the first major stop on the Kepler Track, and has a nice little beach that looks out on to the town of Te Anau. There are some portapotty toilets here, and we saw one table for a quick bite. Alas, camping is not allowed here.
Can I just go on a quick tangent real quick here? I want to give New Zealand a big high five for having public toilets EVERYWHERE. I won't say all of them are in great shape, but you can be assured that if you're taking a long drive, there are tons of picnic areas along the way, most of which will have a toilet to use. I compare this to the US where rest stops are few and far between, and that means you have to dart into a private business and hope they don't care, or use the always dicey gas stop rest rooms (is there such thing as a clean gas station bathroom?). My point is, even though I didn't even use them on this walk, it's reassuring to know that toilets are out there for the poor folks who prefer a toilet to all other options (<--- this girl right here).
Back the point at hand: Dock Bay - definitely worth the stop both ways.
On a clearer day, the mountains that frame the backdrop of Te Anau would have been more visible.
There are a few water crossings, all of which include a handy bridge to avoid fording any rivers.
Almost there!
After walking for nearly an hour more in one direction than we had anticipated, we made it to Brod Bay. Camping is allowed at this beach area, and there are more official picnicking possibilities, with a few more tables, covered areas, and again, toilets. Had we known the trip would have taken as long as it did, we would have brought lunch, but fortunately, I had an extra protein bar from the airport that we could share.
The view from the beach here is really something special, and makes the effort totally worth it. I mentioned this earlier, but the sandflies were definitely present, and without the bug spray, enjoying the beach would have been challenging. The wind along the beach is helpful, but doesn't completely eradicate the pests.
Enjoying our light snack, but lunch would have been much more preferable. Don't make our mistake, I beg you! :) We were not alone here, and we had caught up to those who had made a beeline to the camp. However, even with the others present, it certainly didn't feel crowded.
After a quick snack and a check in on my poor pinky toe who happened to develop a really gnarly blister, we started making our way back. You aren't always along the water, though it's always pretty close the majority of the trek, but sometimes you have to stop and take in the scenery.
We stopped back at Dock Bay for a quick break before the last half hour hike back. The colors had really improved from our earlier stop, and the blues got bluer, the clouds whiter. It was incredibly peaceful, again, with no one else to share the spot with.
Te Anau's backdrop.
As we neared the end, our hunger started to kick in (we were two hours past the time we thought we'd be eating lunch), and the feet were starting to let us know they had had enough. This is Ben's "Are we there yet?" pose, and wondering why I'm taking so long with my damn picture taking.
Just before you exit the forest, you catch one last glimpse of the lakefront with the dramatic mountains in the background. Yes, if you're a casual walker, your feet may be angry with you after a random 9 mile walk, but for those who are used to longer distances and much tougher terrain, this walk would be, well, a walk in the park.
Make sure you heed the warnings back at the flood gates and don't nominate yourself for the dreaded Darwin Awards by jumping over and killing yourself.
Instead, drink in one last breath of fresh air, coupled with the beautiful scenery, and congratulate yourself for hiking a small portion of one of New Zealand's Great Walks. You made it!
Kepler Track: Car Port to Brod Bay
The website for this walking track includes some confusing information, but the walk is nearly 9 miles round trip. The website also includes important information about different transportation options to and from Te Anau, or if you're like us, just park in the car park at the beginning of the hike.
There are a ton of other hiking options, some day trips, and some a few days longer. For more information, visit this website.
Trip Tips:
Bring lunch!
Bring bug spray - you can thank me later.
Dress in layers - the temperature will likely change while you're out on your walk.
Bring back up wet weather precautions. We were lucky that it didn't rain at all on our walk, but everyday we had been in Te Anau had seen a variety of different weather patterns. We came prepared, but turns out our precautions weren't needed. We'd still take the same precautions next time, though. Depending on the season, you should also prepare for the possibility of snow.
Bring plenty of water. There were no places to replace water that I saw along this stretch of the trail.
Wear comfy shoes - your feet will thank you!
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